Frostburg is a slice of Americana, a centuries-old college town on the National Road, with a nostalgic downtown perched on a steep incline. Many GAP riders pass it by because of its location at the top of a mountain. The switchback from the trail takes you only halfway up, leaving a steep climb to downtown. But the visit is well worth the effort, and an e-bike makes it easy. I thoroughly enjoy this little town and recommend staying here.
The Long Way Round Route
After breakfast at the Princess Diner, I set out on what might qualify as one of the more unusual rides on the GAP. I headed 16 miles down the mountain to Cumberland, turned and pedaled back up 33 miles to Meyersdale. It sounds convoluted, but it fits my approach to these round-trip tours. I aim for 50 miles a day, which makes for a six-day GAP tour, staying in a different town each night.
Any uncertainty about my long way around route disappeared as I coasted 16 miles downhill with no power assistance. I love the feeling of speed on a descent. There’s a thrill in flying down a hill, combining a little challenge with the satisfaction of a good run.
Today, I let the bike set the pace and took things easy. I enjoyed the free ride into Cumberland, averaging about 12 miles per hour. I highly recommend it. I saw just as much as I usually do when slogging up the mountain, but from a different perspective. The early morning fog lifted, and the sun rose. Slowing down is the best way to see more, actually in most of life.
Time to Kill, and I Slayed It
Pedaling the last mile into Cumberland, I had coffee on my mind. Nothing beats a morning of touring more than a hot latte at a local coffee shop. Cumberland’s downtown revitalization project, which had been underway for years, was finally complete. My mission was to venture down Baltimore Street in search of coffee.
What an amazing transformation! Any city hoping to reimagine its Main Street should take a look. The streetscape featured one-way traffic in a single lane, occasional parking on one side, decorative islands, and bike-friendly infrastructure. And there it was, Café Mark, with tables out front.
The most remarkable part was the contrast from previous visits, when downtown Cumberland felt empty and abandoned. This morning, it was alive. The coffee shop was thriving, several new businesses had appeared, and a hotel in a restored historic building. It’s always welcome to see a downtown finding new life.
With coffee in my system and a fully charged battery, I started the climb back up the Big Savage. Since I hadn’t used any battery on the way down, I decided to experiment with how far I could stretch it. For almost the entire climb, I kept the bike in its lowest economy mode. When I reached Frostburg 16 miles later, I still had 80% battery remaining.
Knowing I had only another 16 miles to Meyersdale, I switched to tour mode for the final stretch. The extra assistance made the end of the ride more enjoyable. I arrived with about 50% battery left. My fear of running out of power on that mountain had finally been put to rest.
I checked into the B&B just before 3 p.m., showered, walked to dinner, and settled in for a wonderful evening.
Worth Hitting the Brakes
I’m a big fan of small-town diners on my tours. When I stay in a hotel that offers a free hotel breakfast, I skip it in favor of a local diner or coffee shop. Sometimes I’ll ride an hour out to break up the day. In Frostburg, there’s the wonderful Princess Restaurant, another true slice of Americana.
A group of regulars sat beside me at the counter, hashing out the details of life: politics, small-town gossip, and, on this particular morning, how the last member of their group had finally been put on a CPAP machine. There they were, solving the world’s problems over breakfast.
The Princess has quintessential small-town diner vibes with reasonable prices, excellent food, and generous portions. True to form, I left about half my meal behind, but I was satisfied with the food, conversation, and experience.
A few years ago, an Amish family settled and set up a farm market beside the trail past Big Savage. Yesterday, on my way down to Frostburg, I knew it would be a mandatory stop on the return. They have an amazing selection of homemade jams and jellies.
I pulled off the trail and picked out three flavors for just $3.50 per half-pint, along with a six-pack of homemade chocolate chip cookies for $3.00. Shopping on the return trip meant I didn’t haul the extra weight up the mountain. That’s my kind of planning, with a sweet reward at the end.
Memories Riding Home
I try not to eavesdrop on other people’s conversations, but sometimes it happens. At the Frostburg trailhead, a cyclist was on her phone, complaining about her tour partners. Her words sounded all too familiar. She was touring with people she regularly rode with, but their GAP and C&O adventure was unraveling.
If you’re a seasoned bicycle tourist, you probably know the story. Someone you enjoy riding with on day rides may not be the right companion for seven straight days. She was unhappy with the group’s pace and overall dynamics.
I resisted the temptation to be the old guy offering unsolicited advice, hopped back on my bike, and headed up the mountain.
Her dilemma was one of the reasons I began embracing solo touring more. It’s an amazing way to travel, offering plenty of time for reflection and complete freedom. It’s never lonely. When you’re a person traveling alone on a bike, people are much more willing to strike up a conversation.
I haven’t given up group touring, but I’m selective. There are things I look for in a tour partner. Do we share the same cycling philosophy? Do they see fellow riders as partners rather than competitors? Above all, are they willing to go with the flow instead of letting minor problems ruin the day?
A good group tour is about more than the miles. It’s also about the people you share them with.
The Wheel Deal
This was a fascinating touring day doing the unusual: riding both down and back up the mountain when most people choose to move forward to their destination. I discovered a revitalized downtown, enjoyed small-town hospitality, stocked up on Amish treats, and learned a thing or two about managing my e-bike battery.
Life was good today. And the best part? My remaining two days are pretty much downhill
Miles: 49 miles from Frostburg to Meyersdale via Cumberland.
Views: 2,000 feet of climbing and descending over Big Savage Mountain, with spectacular scenery in both directions, letting the surroundings set the pace instead of an app.
Unexpected Win of the Day: Learning how much I can still rely on my own legs while keeping the freedom to call on a little motor motivation when needed.
Quote for the Day: Making what seems like a strange choice can lead to unexpected adventure, a reminder that the unusual paths lead to a happy, memorable ending.
Happy Trails!
Tom on the Trails