I woke to heavy fog hanging over the river as I headed to breakfast in Confluence. By the time I returned to the Airbnb, loaded my bags onto the bike, and hit the path, the mist was lifting into a crisp, cloudless autumn morning. It was shaping up to be an ideal day for a ride, provided my legs were ready for the elevation. By the time I rolled into Frostburg, I had pedaled 47 miles and climbed over 1,600 feet.
More than hills on my mind
First in my mind today, my Calendar reminded me that today marked the 21st anniversary of my heart attack, a milestone that stayed with me through every pedal stroke. During my 17-day hospital stay that included 10 days in the cardiac ICU and two additional surgeries, I could never have imagined that two decades later I would be spending a week cycling solo across the Allegheny Mountains.
When you’re climbing a mountain on a loaded e-bike carrying about 40 pounds of gear, you have plenty of time to think. Even with electric assistance, keeping the bike in its lowest assist setting meant I still felt the genuine effort of the climb. It gave me space to take stock of where I’ve been.
I certainly wouldn’t wish a heart attack on anyone, but that crisis forced me to confront my health and completely alter my path. In those early recovery days, I sometimes wondered if I’d even be alive the following year.
Instead, the bicycle changed my life. Before cycling, I wasn’t an outdoors person, and the idea of embarking on multi-day solo tours would have felt entirely outside my comfort zone. One ride led to another, opening a door to a different way of living. At 72, I may not be as fast as I once was, but I’m certainly not done growing, changing, or exploring.
The great direction debate
The second thing on my mind was the climb itself. Having ridden the miles of the GAP and C&O Canal Trail all the way from Washington, D.C. to Pittsburgh seven or eight times, I have a firm opinion on the eternal touring debate: which direction to ride the GAP and C&O.
While the C&O is a flat, 185-mile river-level towpath, the GAP is an entirely different animal: a rail trail. Coming from the east, the trail climbs steadily for roughly 20 miles toward the summit of Big Savage Mountain, after which the general trend is a long downhill to Pittsburgh. That makes me firmly an east-to-west rider.
This trip, however, is a round-trip GAP-only tour designed to keep me in a different town each night. Today I cycled through the Big Savage Tunnel and tackled about 4 miles downhill to Frostburg for the night. Tomorrow I’ll leave Frostburg, head down Big Savage to Cumberland, and turn west toward Pittsburgh. I’ll tackle that 20-mile climb in the morning. Sometimes the best adventures begin when you purposefully choose the route that makes you work a little harder. Well, we’ll see.
Worth hitting the brakes
As the morning fog burned off, bright sunshine broke through a canopy of yellow, orange, and red leaves. These shady miles climbing along the Casselman River are the most scenic sections of the trail. Traveling solo means I never have to worry about keeping a companion waiting. I stopped often to take photos as crisp autumn leaves drifted down around me.
Beyond the foliage, the trail’s railroad history provides its own stunning backdrops. The dark iron of the bridges crossing the river and the long, expansive Salisbury Viaduct, ringed with wind turbines, provide a striking contrast to the surrounding passage and valley. Emerging from the eastern portal of the Big Savage Tunnel, I paused at the overlook to take in the valley below.
Memories riding home with me
Riding back through these familiar milestones brings a deep sense of nostalgia. The GAP was my very first bicycle tour back in 2011, taken six years after my heart attack. Returning here connects the person I was then with the person I’ve become. It was the perfect day on the bike, in more ways than one.
Nothing in life is guaranteed, particularly as we get older, but staying curious and continuing to explore gives life a richness that numbers can’t measure. I’m still heading in a good direction. I’m certainly not done riding.
The wheel deal
With crisp autumn air and plenty of reflection, I pedaled and climbed. Brilliant fall foliage and historic railroad bridges made for a beautiful day on the trail. I reflected on how dramatically my life has changed, how cycling opened doors I never imagined, and how grateful I am to be exploring at 72.
Miles: 48 miles from Confluence to Frostburg
Views: Autumn colors made the 1,600 feet of climbing worth much more than the effort.
Unexpected Win of the Day: A step back in time that connected with the place and time I am today.
Quote of the Day: Sometimes the greatest measure of how far we’ve come is not the distance behind us, but the curiosity that keeps us moving forward.
Happy Trails!
Tom on the Trails
Tom, thank you for sharing your story! Your descriptions bring back memories of one of the most beautiful sections. Enjoy!